{"id":3575,"date":"2025-08-06T20:46:16","date_gmt":"2025-08-06T20:46:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bikebums.com\/?p=3575"},"modified":"2025-08-06T20:47:36","modified_gmt":"2025-08-06T20:47:36","slug":"ups-and-downs","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bikebums.com\/index.php\/category\/2025\/ups-and-downs\/","title":{"rendered":"Ups and downs"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Yesterday morning was very wet &#8211; I&#8217;m glad I made the decision to stay at an official campground. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>The previous day I was having some trouble shifting, but it was pouring and I was almost at the end of my day, so I let it go. When I started inspecting yesterday morning, I noticed that my chainring bolts had become loose. Easy fix! Except one of them must have been cracked because when I went to tighten it, it snapped right off! I&#8217;m always finding new ways to break my bike! According to Google, I was days away from the nearest bike shop to get a replacement bolt, with several big climbs between. After kicking myself for forgetting to bring zip ties, I realized I had a shallow-head bolt and nut, and was able to get some washers from the camp host, and was able to jerry-rig a fix to add enough tension that I wouldn&#8217;t make things worse, as long as I rode easy on the middle ring, and mostly relied on the granny ring.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>I also somehow managed to crack one of my tent poles but it was a pretty easy fix with some electrical tape and a pole splint <\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>I had a long slow climb up to about 2,500 ft., and, despite the cold rain, it was really beautiful. More waterfalls and clear lakes.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Just after the summit there was this cool overlook that looked out onto the valley below and the super windy road I was about to descend. Also there were sheep with bells on them <\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The descent down the switchbacks of the Gaularfjellsvegan was pretty awesome, but I was definitely soaking wet and cold by the time I got to the bottom. <a href=\"https:\/\/photos.app.goo.gl\/RNbhfpF52pD3TnTXA\">Here&#8217;s a video I made of the descent<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>I had a short ride along the fjord and then spent some time warming up and drying off in the waiting area for the ferry that would take me across the fjord. I also managed to book a cheap room while researching camping options. On the ferry I had a tasty pancake with brun\u00f8st, a yummy brown, sweet cheese!<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Once I got to the other side of the fjord, things improved: the rain lessened just a slight drizzle and also I had an amazing tailwind rushing me into the next town, as I raced along the fjord <\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>But I got to the town, Sogndal, I found out that by what Google said there was a bike shop and I had gotten there in time to go get the part I needed, and it was still even early enough that I could still buy beer! (In Norway you can&#8217;t buy alcohol after 8:00 p.m. The other Scandinavian countries had similar rules)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>I got into my room, laid out my clothes to dry out, fixed my bike (the chainring bolt install went without a hitch), ate some dinner and had a great night&#8217;s sleep. I also did some route research based on some suggestions I had gotten and decided to change my route to add more mountains and fjords, with a ferry bailout option if I get behind<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"3580\" src=\"https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_09032200696385275669654198-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3580\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_09032200696385275669654198-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_09032200696385275669654198-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_09032200696385275669654198-768x578.jpg 768w, 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src=\"https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1332291294460884981831874866-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3598\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1332291294460884981831874866-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1332291294460884981831874866-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1332291294460884981831874866-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1332291294460884981831874866-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1332291294460884981831874866-1200x904.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1332291294460884981831874866.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 709px) 85vw, (max-width: 909px) 67vw, (max-width: 1362px) 62vw, 840px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image 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https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1452531371898883221186016517-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1452531371898883221186016517-1200x904.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1452531371898883221186016517.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 709px) 85vw, (max-width: 909px) 67vw, (max-width: 1362px) 62vw, 840px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"3601\" src=\"https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1455022104766567787039459830-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3601\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1455022104766567787039459830-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1455022104766567787039459830-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1455022104766567787039459830-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1455022104766567787039459830-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1455022104766567787039459830-1200x904.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250805_1455022104766567787039459830.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 709px) 85vw, (max-width: 909px) 67vw, (max-width: 1362px) 62vw, 840px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>This morning the weather was much better &#8211; warmer, and partly cloudy with only the occasional drizzle <\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>I started the day off with some more riding along the fjord &#8211; the color is unreal! I had a small climb along another gushing river, then a fun descent into a village where I caught another ferry<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>On the other side I visited an old stave church from the 1100s &#8211; very cool stuff<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>After that, more fun riding along the coast, with&nbsp;more stunning waterfalls than I could count, the occasional tunnel, and almost no traffic at all. Oh &#8211; and I saw a seal sunning itself on a rock! <\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>I ended the day by climbing up the steep switchbacks of the Sognefjellsvegen, the highest paved road in northern Europe, topping out at 4705 feet. I got up to about 2500 before finding a spot to camp (I started pretty much at sea level). It&#8217;s a bit drizzly, and probably in the upper 40s, but I&#8217;m feeling pretty cozy in my tent. I also can&#8217;t believe I get a strong cell signal here! <\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"3604\" src=\"https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250806_0916339356147096152487980217-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3604\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250806_0916339356147096152487980217-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250806_0916339356147096152487980217-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250806_0916339356147096152487980217-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/bikebums.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/pxl_20250806_0916339356147096152487980217-1536x1157.jpg 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