And then the were two

  • Breakfast at Frank’s Place – we think Frank may have been in the military
  • Got to port Townsend ferry where Nick and Jim had to split off – they had a 50+ mile journey to get to Seattle
  • Bid farewell to our brethren – many tears were shed – we shall meet again in Milvia
  • Got to port Townsend – hey look a brewery!
  • After beers and tasty tacos, we rode to the Olympic Discovery Trail
  • Just before trail entrance, I saw Green New Deal bus that I had seen in desert outside of Taos, NM during BikeBums 2020. Had another rambling chat with occupant and his dog
  • Trail out of Port Townsend was fantastic – mix of pavement and smooth gravel
  • Met two women touring from San Diego – they had even more crap strapped to their bikes than I did
  • Got supplies at S’Klallum fancy gas station/grocery store with bumping soundtrack
  • Rode into Sequim state park campground late, met Mer and friend. Mer was two days away from completing cross-country ride from Baltimore, 60% on rail trails

Posted from Sequim, Washington, 98382, US.

Land ho!

  • Rolled out of campsite
  • Waited too long in boogie bakery line, only for Zach’s dream of savory scone being gobbled up by the person in front of us – Jim waited patiently
  • Took slight detour to avoid main road traffic. Also, return trip was easier
  • Had to wait 1.5 hours for return ferry to mainland. Entertainment was provided man with acute seasickness which required EMT intervention
  • Boarding of ferry involved rare trans-deck bike ride
  • Ferry trip featured ad-hoc D&D session ending in cliffhanger – Jim waited patiently
  • Deception pass bridge crossing was less spectacular due to narrow sidewalk + heavy traffic
  • Arrived at deception pass state park – once again, hike/bike sites were inconveniently placed on a single-track trail 1/2 mile from bathroom
  • Debated pros/cons of four six-minute showers vs one 24-minute group shower
  • Entertainment was provided by fully-armed navy jets buzzing the campground
  • Nick assisted lost child – another theme that would continue in Washington state parks

Posted from Oak Harbor, Washington, 98277, US.

Island life

  • Rode to Anacortes over awesome bike bridge and through boat graveyard
  • Jim got new tent stakes at Ace – it truly is The Place
  • Second breakfast and future lunch at delicious deli
  • Ferry time!
    • Sundeck and galley were closed due to cobid
    • Saw an otter 🦦
  • Orcas island!
    • Disembarked ferry to be met with Uff-Da Hill.
    • Maps to star’s homes are available
    • Orcas island didn’t live up to reputation of being tranquil and serene – overrun by rich boomers, much traffic. Also, dang those hills were steep
    • Tailwind for first half of ride, headwind for second
    • Stopped in Eastport (hey look, a generic touristy Irish-themed pub) . Entertainment was provided by a ill-fated sailboat being buffeted against shoreline in heavy winds – sheriff got involved
    • Arrived at Moran state park – hike/bike site was available, but they make you work for it. Only beautiful people get convenient access to pristine lake/showers/bathrooms.

Posted from Eastsound, Washington, 98245, US.

Jim patiently waited

  • Jim was packed with helmet on at daybreak while he waited 4 hours for the rest of us to emerge (this would become a theme)
  • Went back to the hottest venue in Machias – the park pavilion. Met a few more local characters, including the friendly park superintendent, and a man who lived nearby for 6 months and had never ridden the trail
  • Trail was great
  • Stopped in Arlington to resupply at Gross-out
  • Continued north to end of trail
  • Good tacos next to I-5
  • La Conner! Hey look a brewery!
  • Crossed bridge onto Swinomish lands
  • Camping options remained scarce – ending up staying at an RV resort so expensive, the manager felt bad for us and have us a discount
  • We did laundry and all took 20 minute showers
  • Jim bent all of his tent stakes due to unforgiving RV parking spot
  • “Are you guys European? Oh, I see lots of Europeans on bikes”
  • Puget sound attained!

Posted from La Conner, Washington, 98257, US.

And then there were five

  • Started day with fresh lemon water and coffee provided by our gracious hosts
  • Said goodbyes and headed into town to meet our newly arrived comrades
  • Quick breakfast at bakery, then onto another rail trail
  • Rolled 5 deep for a few miles until we had to say goodbye to Alice. Many tears were shed
  • Jim got first flat of tour within first 10 miles
  • Lunch in Duvall twee-town, then back onto roads after our long streak of trails
  • WA country roads are pleasant, but some drivers are great big babies – witnessed at least 2 impatience-driven near-collisions
  • Snohomish! Hey look a pub! The beer prices were time-shifted from the early 90s, and the help-yourself popcorn reminded us of pre-covid times
  • Got on the centennial rail trail – 30+ miles of butter-smooth pavement
  • Camping options once again limited – met various characters at pavilion while considering options
  • Found cozy little creekside hide-away just of trail – perfect for camping as long as you avoid the human waste

Posted from Snohomish, Washington, 98290, US.

The road provides

  • More smooth riding along trail
  • Second breakfast at Cle Ellum bakery: mix of delicious authentic baked goods and generic branded kitsch
  • More tressles, tunnels, streams on trail
  • 2 mile long tunnel at Snoqualmie pass – pitch black jam session in middle of tunnel
  • 20 mile descent off pass with amazing views
  • Tacos in twin peaks town (north bend)
  • Coordinating lodging with Nick and Jim as they completed 12 hour drive from Oakland
  • Searched for nearby camping, but we were on the populated side of the Cascades now – scoped a nice, sketchy spot next to river for plan B
  • Hey look a brewery!
  • Asked around at brewery for camping options. Just when all hope was lost, Alice rolled a natty on her charisma check, and we were invited to sleep in the backyard of John, Helen, and summit the dog
  • Bought beer for our hosts only to find that they had bought beer for us – recipe for a great, late night of drinking, conversation, and caterwauling
  • Zach vs his tent yielded minor contusions to face. Both contestants survived for future rematch
  • Nick and Jim were relegated to seedy downtown motel

Posted from North Bend, Washington, 98045, US.


  • Awoke to rv overnighter being evicted by BLM agent
  • Flipped coin outside of twee fly shop/cafe to decide second breakfast. Breakfast won. Sandwiches were great, but muzak channel was depressing
  • Smooth ride up Yakima canyon, now with normal traffic volume (aka not much)
  • Ellensburg!
    • Met overzealous artist/man-about-town/street king of E’s-burg. Got boba tip
    • Spent hours in great boba cafe whilst Alice rerouted her plans due to cancelled Amtrak (tracks burnt in Cali wildfire)
    • Next stop: brewery! Saw-themed in honor of our serrated serenader. Great brews, good food, great way to avoid the heat
    • Quick stop at Safeway for food + trail beers
  • Palouse-to-Cascade rail trail!
    • 80 miles of car-free bliss
    • Camped at nice campground along trail – skinny dipping in Yakima river

Posted from Cle Elum, Washington, 98922, US.

Great balls of fire

  • Blew through 25 miles, downhill with tailwind, averaging 17.5mph along American river of WA
  • Rode through fruit orchards: apples, pears, cherries, grapes, etc
  • Deliciously second breakfast in trump cafe
  • Broastingly warm in Yakima; dealt with heat in traditional bums way, going to movie theater to see stripper movie
  • Many beers at brewery, then stumbled into grocery store
  • Ice cream cones beneath mushroom clouds of nearby wildfire
  • White knuckle ride through Yakima canyon routing closed freeway traffic: semis, boat trailers, rvs, etc
  • Campsite entertainment provided by helicopters filling water buckets from river
  • Band practice ended early by mosquitoes

Posted from Yakima, Washington, 98901, US.


  • Took a wrong turn leaving campsite and rode two miles downhill
  • Witnessed a baby elk very nearly meet a violent end, saved only by its skittering hooves
  • Ascended mount rainier on a beautiful road with a very steady grade
  • Wildflower game was on point
  • Alice opened a roadside sno-cone confectionary
  • Views, views, and more views
  • Construction traffic director was boisterous and loving life – made questionable comments about my thighs
  • Lunch and a delightful dip at Tipsoo lake
  • Crossed Chinook Pass and began epic downhill cruise along the American river
  • Ended evening at lovely campsite next to river at tourist trap resort – more tunes and disco lights ensued

Posted from Naches, Washington, 98937, US.

Over the river and through the mountains

Woke up in the RV park with fresh laundry and clean bodies. We started the day at the coffee shop/bakery. Today we committed to spending our flex day exploring the Mount Rainier National Forest.

A quick 12 mile ride got us to the Ohanapecosh campground. We spent the day hiking amongst old growth cedars, crystal-blue streams, and baby skunks. We would discover later in the afternoon that our campsite was nestled amongst an enormous group of nosey church-goers on an annual summer retreat. One particular octagenarian would not leave us alone. Cue Cat Stevens. We ended the day with a frosty dip in the river, a gourmet dinner of cheesey broccoli rice, and some tunes next to the campfire before retiring to a delightfully chilly evening.

Posted from Packwood, Washington, 98361, US.