After sadly dropping Alice off at the train station, Bill (our amazing warm showers host) and I rode together for a few miles swapping stories. Bill has done a ton of touring, and may be the most BikeBum of them all because he will often plan his route as he rides!
Bill gave me a great tip on a route through forest roads to avoid the highway – he even rode the first ten miles with me! The ride was steep, but beautiful the whole way. In fact, when I reached the top, I decided it was so nice – and I knew the end of the mountains was coming soon – I decided to pitch my tent early and just spent the whole day enjoying the meadows and watching the weather change.
I made it to the closest campsite to the final pass pretty early, and had enough time to: catch a movie (a quiet place: day 1 – so so plot, but great acting), replace my deteriorating bike shorts at the pearl izumi outlet, fix the leaks in my air mattress, and get in a quick swim/rinse before making dinner and going to bed
The next morning I met a guy doing gravel rides in the area – he’s connecting them all by taking buses! He said he got a bus from Denver to Frisco for like 15 bucks! Also, he lived in Key West, and had worked on the sail boats at the boy scout high adventure base like I had taken when I was in high school!
From Silverthorne to Breckenridge, there is about 20 miles of amazing bike path – beautiful!
Unfortunately, the bike path ends and dumps you onto a pretty unfriendly highway with little to no shoulder and lots of RVs and gravel/dump trucks all the way up to Hoosier pass – it got better as I approached the top, but the beginning was unpleasant to say the least.
A quick note about riding in Colorado: this is a beautiful state with some top-notch opportunities for unforgettable riding and great people, but wow do these highways suck! There is often little to no shoulder, and a ton of traffic – including a huge amount of freight traffic on these tiny backroad highways. What’s worse, the drivers are insane. It’s one thing for me to feel like I’m in danger from a vehicle passing too close, but I have witnessed many times when a driver could not be bothered to wait ten to twenty seconds for a safe opportunity to pass, and instead pulled into the opposing lane and literally ran oncoming vehicles off the road – when after that car the road was clear for half a mile! It’s like their cars have high-voltage electroshock hooked up to their brake pedals. But, whaddyagonnado…
Summiting Hoosier pass – 11,539 feet – was fun. I definitely felt the elevation and was huffing and puffing at the end. The descent was a great rocket-ride too!
I camped behind the bar in Hartsel, where I met a guy named Ed who was riding westbound on an ebike. We spent the whole night swapping stories and yammering about this and that – super cool guy! (To my dismay, I was too early for the Hartsel rendezvous that Mike and I visited in 2004)
The next day I dropped around 4000 feet into canyon City. I had planned to keep going, but I ordered some prescriptions to the pharmacy here (one of the last Walgreens I’ll see for at least a week), but although they were filled in time, it closed early for some unexpected reason. It was hot, i was tired, and there were no obvious camping options, so I checked into a cheap motel, did some laundry, and spent the day chilling out in the A/C.