Over the hump

Greetings from crazy expensive Vail, Colorado! I made it over the passes! Here’s highlights from the past few days. On Friday, i rode through the town of black hawk, co, infamous for banning bikes on city streets. Wikipedia quotes a city council member straight up staying “this is in the best interest of the casinos.” The ban was overturned by the Colorado supreme Court, but they left the stupid “no bikes” signs up. Turns out they also made a crazy steep grade for 2 miles to get out of town, which the courts seem to have upheld.
I’ve ridden along some really sweet bike paths, including a 25 or so mile path over vail pass that rides like a roller coaster through the woods! Unfortunately, i got news that one of the highlights of my route, the bike path through glenwood Canyon, is under water. Colorado got 150% of their snowpack, so flooding has been a common theme. We’ll see what happens when i get there – I’ll likely need to hitch.
So far, it’s been really gorgeous, although tough, riding through the mountains. I’m glad to be heading downhill now.

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Boo!
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Snow on the bike path
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Top of the world!

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Flooded bike path. Wish i had a pic of me riding through this while holding my front panniers!
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Avalanche on the bike path!
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It's not all ice and snow, see
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Ice on the lake!

Goodbye, mountains

After my post the other day, i continued down from vail through very cold, very wet weather. Luckily, it was all downhill, else i likely would have blown three days budget on an overpriced hotel room. I set up my tent in the rain and holed up in there around 6:00 and just read all night. The next day (yesterday) i woke up to a bright, sunny (albeit chilly) morning. I let the tent dry while i finished my book, and hit the road towards glenwood springs.
When i reached the closed bike path, i decided to just go for it and see how bad it was. The part i rode was mostly okay, just a lot of spots covered in slippery river silt (which thoroughly covered my bike). However, there was one spot i needed to haul my bike over a floating log jam, and a few spots i needed to push through water, one of which was about three feet deep through a tunnel, so i had to shuttle my bags first, then my bike. I realized that this is another benefit of touring with other people: when you do something crazy (like wading your bike through the Colorado River), you have someone to document it, or at least verify that it happened! In the end, i still had to hitch a ride : I got to a locked gate, and at that point the river was pretty raging. Luckily, i was at a turnout for a hiking trail, and it didn’t take long for me to convince someone to give me a lift.
I’m definitely leaving the mountains behind as i slowly descend into the desert.

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Easy peasy

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Hanging lake
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This is as far as I go!

Utah!

I made it to grand junction to pick up Andrew with no problems. The only real highlights of the ride between glenwood springs and there is that i found a great place to get pupusas for lunch, and i cracked out a 72 mile day.
After Andrew assembled his bike, i noticed he didn’t have a water bottle cage or bottle on his bike (all his water was tucked away in his panniers). I was just about to inform him of this when a guy across the street yelled to ask us if we needed any bike parts from his recycled bike shop right there, so we ended up getting Andrew hooked up for free.
We rode up into the Colorado national Monument – a gorgeous ride – and camped there the first night.
Yesterday was one of the toughest days I’ve ever had riding. It’s about 80 miles from Fruita to moab, and there’s nowhere along the way to get water. We thought we had plenty – over a gallon each – but we didn’t plan for the 25 mile an hour headwind. We rode for over five hours, averaging about 6.5 in the brutal wind, inching our way across barren desert. The hot wind sucked our moisture away, and we quickly went through our water supply. It eventually became clear that we had a problem, but luckily, we didn’t have to wave our empty bottles at traffic for long before Keith the Hero stopped and not only gave us some ice water, but offered us a ride. He had to turn around once because i had left my handlebar bag behind in my parched stupor, and then, after dropping us off at the next campsite, he drove all the way back from his house (about 25 miles) because Andrew had left his helmet in Keith’s truck. They don’t come much nicer than that.
Now we’re at a campsite in moab, but Andrew’s knee may be broken… We’ll have to see how things turn out.

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Water! Sweet, delicious water!

I’m still here!

Okay – overdue post again. Here’s what’s been happening :
After arriving in Moab, Andrew and I took it pretty easy to try and rest his knee. The next day, we rode – without gear – to Arches National Park. It was a spectacular ride – just amazing scenery. We did a short hike, and then headed back (it’s 18 miles each way). We were almost to the park entrance when Andrew’s knee started hurting again – bad. He couldn’t even stand on it, let alone ride. Luckily, the second truck i thumbed down stopped and gave Andrew a lift back to our campsite. Unfortunately, it was the end for Andrew’s bike tour. He’s promised to be ready for the next one!
After much brainstorming and research, we figured out that the quickest, cheapest way to get Andrew back to sf was for me to rent a car in Moab and drive him to salt lake city where he could rent a one-way for a reasonable price. That pretty much took a full day – along the way, we met a father-son duo of bike tourists – they were Mennonites from Chihuahua, and were riding from there to the Canadian Rockies. They said they were the only people from their community who had done anything like that, and everyone else thought they were crazy.
I returned to Moab, and began riding solo again. I had a pretty easy day to green river, where i met another tourist heading to Portland, but on a different route – he was going through Yellowstone, from Tucson, so we were actually going different directions in green river. After that, i had another long empty stretch across the desert. When I got to my destination, Wellington, I experienced yet another instance of road magic. I was in the town park, trying to decide whether to camp in an empty lot i had seen by the road, or shell out to stay in a sketchy-looking motel called “pillow talk” when a guy – about 17 years old, popped out the bathroom, saw me, and said “that’s a great beard.”
“thanks.”
“hey, are you hungry? ”
“I could eat. Why do you ask?”
“Do you want to come over and have dinner? We’re having ribs!”
That’s how I met Clayton and the rest of the Rhoades family: Nick, Ben, and their dad Joe. Not only did they feed me dinner, but we watched tv, played poker, and I ended up sleeping on their couch – it felt like I was part of their family for a night. They’re all huge Steelers fans – Joe grew up within sight of three rivers stadium, and his family would often have dinner with the players – so it’s amazing that they still let me hand around after i admitted i was raised in browns territory. It really was one of the best unexpected hospitality experiences I’ve ever had – Clayton even woke up and cooked me breakfast before i left the next morning! Thanks Rhoades’!
After another short stint in the desert, i began another 4000 foot climb into the mountains (after stopping to scarf down an entire 14″ pizza by myself, that is). It was awesome to see how quickly the landscape changed from arid scrub to lush forest. I only just briefly entered the alpine before racing back down into the next valley.
I’m now in the great basin, and should make it into the greater salt lake metro area tomorrow. I meet Pierre in twin falls in five days!

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Andrew in Arches

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A scene from the post-human future
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Clayton Rhoades, all-around first-class guy
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Hello mountains!

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Just the two of us

Wow – long time no post. Here’s what’s been going on: i ended up hopping on the commuter rail from provo to ogden to avoid riding through miles of strip mall around salt lake city. From there, i began a stretch where i was only going through one town a day – lots of lonely country.  Not a whole lot to report, except that a headwind has been my constant companion.
Pierre made it to twin falls with no problems. We quickly assembled his bike, grabbed some food, and were off! We camped the first night at some pretty sweet hot springs, the second night within site of some huge sand dunes, and last night in front of the sheriff’s office!
It’s been some really great riding since twin falls, changing back and forth between farmland and desert depending on the irritation (there are some really elaborate irritation systems here). We should make it to Oregon either tonight or tomorrow.

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I had lunch underneath a space shuttle rocket booster!

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Bums away!

It seems that every year I start these trips a little less prepared, and this was certainly no exception. I played a show last night and didn’t stumble home until after three am. Woke up at eleven, had a slow brunch, and then scrambled to get all my stuff together. I managed to get everything packed up and on my bike in a couple hours, and Casey and I rushed out to catch the train with ten minutes to spare! Now we’re riding the train through the Sacramento delta, hoping we managed to grab everything we need! Time will tell! A perfectly bike bums start to our adventure.

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Blister in the sun

Hey it’s Casey posting, hooray! You might remember me from the “about me” section, or the previous post. Greg and I got off to a good start this morning, accomplishing the goal of 20 miles to Placerville before noon. Unfortunately my vegan superpowers (and sunscreen) didn’t protect me from getting a blistering sunburn. So I soon found myself on the side of the road with a towel draped over my shoulders trying to change out of my sporty bra shirt thing and into a regular t shirt without flashing any of the upstanding residents Rescue, CA. If I wasn’t so hot and exhausted I would try and come up with a pun about needing to be rescued, but I am just too tired. We also saw a fun sign about the second amendment that we were pretty sure had some grammatical errors, but who needs grammar when you have guns! Now we are resting in the vegan oasis of Placerville Natural Foods Co-op and Greg is getting ready to eat an entire pint of ice cream. Yay bike touring!

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Not as bad as it looks

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Going up is the name of the game

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Searing Sierras

Previously on bike bums:
Casey and I got confused and forgot we were riding bikes and not rocket ships as we ascended a mile and a half straight up the mountains. 6 hours of ride time at 5.8 miles per hour would break most people, but Casey and I did it back to back to back! Nothing keeps a good bum down! After destroying the sierra crest at Carson pass, we took a day off in south lake Tahoe to lick our wounds (and see the Rock save his family from certain doom). After a beautiful ride up lake Tahoe, we met Andrew in Truckee yesterday, and are now riding through the beautiful valleys of the northern sierra. It’s as hot as the vinyl seats of your mom’s 1980s station wagon, but it’s OK as long you’re moving. As a precaution, we’re about to make liberal use of the lake in graeagle, CA. See you down the road!

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Here we go again!

Another year, another bicycle adventure! Andrew and I are chilling on the train to Bakersfield. Not much to report aside from finding surprise cookies (the best kind of cookie) in my pannier from Erin. Gonna try to do a better job of updating this goofy blog on this trip.

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A pair of bike bums on their migratory route
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Tatonka! 25,000 miles and counting! Now with butterfly bars!

One day down!

We had a truly amazing first day to kick off our bike tour. Great ride out of Bakersfield this morning – rolling hills, gorgeous scenery. Meet some cool bicyclist, and had a chat with some rail fans. Then we began our first big climb of the trip, and boy was it a doozy. Relentless, 6 mile slog with a bunch of switchbacks, but we made it up in true bums fashion, slow and steady (well, Andrew did beat me by 40 minutes, but who’s counting?)

After our descent, we watered up at really cool dude ranch, and then crossed the spectacular Walker basin. we were completely drained by the climb, and searching for a spot to camp. We must have looked pretty pathetic, because a pickup truck stopped to offer us water. Lucky for us, the truck was occupied by two of the nicest folks you’ll meet, Skip and Cis, who ended up inviting us back to their house to camp, and then offered us dinner. We had great conversations with them ranging from the abundant wildlife around their house (of which Cis takes award-winning photographs) to the various safety concerns of building a C-17 aircraft. Now I’m in my tent, well fed and well beered, and ready for a great night’s sleep. Tomorrow: lake Isabella.

PS: go Cavs!